Reality Frogger Anyone?

Some of you may remember the video game called "Frogger" by Sega. It's the one where you try to get the frog (you) across a street/river without getting killed. The frog has to dodge cars as part of the game. Let me tell you...I am playing a real live version of that here in Mumbai!! Thank goodness for all the practice wandering around Berkeley. The thing is that here they play hardcore.

Yesterday, when K and I were wandering around we happened across a cow that was just casually wandering the streets. It's owner didn't seem to be around. Because the sight of a cow just strolling unrestrained down the road was so different, we followed it some ways while taking care to not be directly behind it in case it decided to release its version of "exhaust" (from the looks of the road where we first saw the cow, being hit with its "exhaust" could be quite traumatizing and filthy!). After a few blocks we were about to take our leave of the cow until we realized that, despite it wandering into oncoming traffic, the vehicles didn't honk at it. Instead they just waited patiently until it moved out of their way. Seeing this K and I decided to take advantage of this and "tailgate" the cow to cross the streets safely. (Very frequently drivers ignore the stop signal and just continue on through the intersection despite there being pedestrians. In fact, they'll honk at you to get out of their way!)

Itching and Itching...

I have only been in India 2 nights and I have already racked up 23 mosquito welts. Not bites - welts! The sad thing is that I have a little over half a dozen on my bum from when I have gone to the bathroom!

ARRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!!! :-(

Culture Shock

Whoa...

Okay. Right now I'm in Mumbai, India. I have been here since Wednesday (for 2 days). Thankfully, my travel partner and I have met up. I'm trying to get caught up with emails and this blog as well as look for possible places to stay for our next destination by hanging out at an internet cafe right now. Okay, admittedly I'm wanting to hang out at the i-net caf for its air-conditioning. (Yeah, it's pretty darn warm - so completely different than the freezing weather of Morocco!)

Mumbai is definitely a place of contradictions. For instance, some of the traditional dress of India women, in my opinion, is fairly sexy and revealing - bare midriffs and tight tops. But when my friend and I tried to stop to watch a group of men play something very similar to 3-card Monty, several men tried to shoo us away because "it's gambling - it's bad." They were pretty serious about it and fairly adamant that we leave. So we left.

The thing that is most astonishing to me is just how crazy Mumbai is. There is so much "more" than what I had imagined: immense hordes of people, tremendous poverty, insane drivers/driving, pollution of garbage and noise, depressed economy... I had some idea of what it would be like but my imagination certainly did not even come close to reality. The only thing that is making me cranky is the noise, specifically that coming from all motor vehicles - cars, taxis, trucks, scooters, motorcycles, etc. It doesn't really die down until about 1:00 a.m. and starts up again at about 6:30 a.m. Talk about a city that doesn't sleep! Let me tell you: Manhattan has NOTHING on Mumbai!! Good grief! I really hope that the rest of India is a bit quieter!

Not Recommended

I really don't recommend traveling to get to your mandatory destination in one shot!

I traveled from Essaouira to Marrakech; showered, packed up, had dinner and then caught the 5:00 a.m. train from Marrakech to Fes; driven via private car from Fes to Nador; crossed the border from Nador to Melilla to catch my ferry; caught the train to the Malaga airport; flew from Malaga to London; and then flew right back out of London to Mumbai. This all took place from Sunday afternoon, February 19 to Wednesday, February 22.

WHAT THE HELL WAS I THINKING??!!

The cool thing was the drive via private car from Fes to Nador. We went over the eastern edge of the Rif Mountains. I wish I was lyrical enough to convey with words their intense beauty. Another reason why it was such a great drive was the "entertainment" I was provided with. It's totally amusing watching and listening to Moroccan men in their 40s rocking out to Pink Floyd, Eagles, and Tracy Chapman!

Lesson Learned

Here's something that I learned from 2 other travelers I met that I'd like to pass on to you all. When you go shopping overseas and are buying things from small stalls, keep an eye on the item that you are purchasing. Make sure that it is the item they are bagging for you and not something else they are switching out with!

These 2 guys found out the hard (but hysterically funny) way. One bought a mock turtleneck that had a fake Nike swoosh on it. It seemed like a perfectly fine t-neck. However, when the other guy tried to borrow it to wear he found out that it wasn't the same as the one shown. The t-neck they ended up with had a head/neck opening the same size as the sleeves! Ohmygawd was it FUNNY watching B try to get the t-neck on!!!!

Second Most Favorite Spot In Morocco

I LOVE Essaouira! It's a small seaport town directly east of Marrakech (about a 3-hour bus ride). It is so incredibly clean and laid-back. Then again, this might have to do something with my own personal bias of loving to be near the ocean.

As with Marrakech, I was quite surprised by the number of tourists in town. I should probably amend that to foreigners as I'm told there are also quite a bit of expats that live in Essaouira.

Anyhow, they have several huge music festivals several times a year. In June there's a Gnawan festival (of the music that I wrote about in a previous blog) for professional artists with another one in August for talent of "amateur" status. Then there's a mixed music fest in September that includes fireworks and medieval Moorish jousting and such. The Gnawan music of Essaouira is notably different from that of the desert. I think that I actually prefer that of Essaouira. There was a shopkeep that was playing and he was so amazing. I could've stayed there all day listening to him play. I really want to try and make it back to check out these festivals!

Soccer is also pretty big here (as with everywhere else in Morocco). Right now, since there are really no tourists frequenting the beaches, they hold games on it. When I was there, there must've been at least 5-6 games going. They're all pretty good. I wish I had gotten up the nerve to ask if I could've join in for a bit!

Thank The Goddess For A Huge Ass, Wide Hips, & Fat Thighs!

Never in a million years would I ever had thought those words would cross my mind with such gratitude and happiness! (And before I get emails lecturing me on the phrasing of the title as commentary on my body, please know that it is simply a comedic thought that crossed my mind; I don't actually believe nor think that way. At least not completely...)

Let me tell you - riding a chameau (camel) is not something I would recommend to anyone that easily gets seasick, have rigid hip motion or bad back, or is afraid of heights! But it is so much fun! And I had such a cool camel to boot. A total sweetie. The only part of being on a camel that freaked me out (at first) is trying to stay on when the camel gets up. You see, the camel is completely kneeling in order for the rider to mount the camel. Then the camel stands up. To do that, the camel first straightens their back legs (and they are long legs) then their forelegs. Once you anticipate this motion, however, it becomes pas de probleme!

My trek started late in the afternoon last Thursday. The first night my guide and I ended up in an ousis (pronounced wa-zis) not too far away. The dunes were incredible. It was amazing how they changed color with the sun setting and with the amount of clouds in the sky. I also couldn't get over how quiet it was - almost deafeningly so. However, it was definitely a welcomed change after the clamoring noises of the people and vehicles of the large cities. And to finally breathe fresh air after the copious amount of motor exhaust and smokers!

The second day we trekked out to the hamada (the "black" desert where volcanic rocks are) to stay with a Berber family. It was really interesting to come upon them with two donkeys in their "yard". It was even more amazing to see 4 kids (and I mean young goats) leap playfully around the donkeys and up onto the Berber tent I was to stay in for the night. The child was the cutest thing ever. The only thing disconcerting about my stay here was the how flat the entire area was. The reason for this is because of how vulnerable I felt having to "use the facilities" in such an environment having come from a culture of being provided with the utmost privacy during such times! Even in the dunes or backpacking one can always find some feature to obtain privacy! But not in a hamada.

The third day we trekked to a small village called Khemliya. The Berbers make a big deal about this because it is a village comprised predominantly of "Black people", as they point out. Evidently even here, there is a significant segregation between Blacks and non-Blacks. Even though there is distinct racial segregation regarding this village because of skin color, there is also proud acknowledgment of the music the people of this village make. It's called Gnawan music. It includes a guinbri, a guitar-like instrument; tabl, double-headed drums; and qaraqeb, a pair of large dumbbell-shaped castanets. There is also dancing that accompanies the music.

The last morning brought me back to the village. Because of how peaceful it was, I couldn't bring myself to leave. The manager of the auberge that I stayed at introduced me to a local woman and her family. Because of my status of being "married", he had her paint my hands and feet with henna for luck and protection. Because the discoloration from the henna is in the traditional style instead of the curlique designs of flowers and swirls most tourists have done I get comments about my henna frequently wherever I go.

Still not willing to leave, I ended up staying in Merzouga until last night. During my stay I got to know quite a few of the locals, again courtesy of manager of the auberge. I was introduced to another Berber family whose women (Khadija, Mahma, and Zora) immediately took me in as one of their own. Right away I felt really comfortable with them as they laugh, talk, and carry on heartily and with full gusto of life - quite unlike the more staid and very reserved Arabic women I have met. The first night, they were determined to start my renovation into a Berber woman by dressing me up Berber-style. Quite hilarious. Because my name was too difficult for them to pronounce, it was modified to "Ashia Berber" (Asian Berber). From that night forth that's what I was called and introduced to other families as. It was so nice being so welcomed and accepted. I think, though, it kind of confused them as to why I would be interested in hanging out with them for there were a couple of times comments being made to that effect. Nevertheless, I think that it pleased them immensely that there was a foreigner interested in learning about their culture, language and way of life instead of just whipping through town in a 4x4, snapping pictures. (At least I hope so...)

I had such a wonderful time there is the desert. I really didn't want to leave at all. Such beauty, tranquility and peace... I shall miss it terribly.

But onward to catch whatever else I can of Morocco.

To that end I took another night bus (14 hours long, I might add) to Marrakech. It is crazy, crazy, crazy! Again, I chose to stay in the medina instead of the ville nouvelle. There are sooo many people. Here the shopkeeps are much more ruthless and persistent than in Fès or Meknès. Additionally, the quality of wares seem much poorer and more expensive.

But the Place Djemaa al-Fna is a sight to behold. There are definite remnants of French influence but it is surely a Moroccan circus. Open food markets, escargot soup (which is pretty good, by the way), snake charmers, Gnawan musicians, jugglers, transvetite belly dancers, fruit juice stands...all mixed into a huge jumble of a crowd. Truly jaw-dropping.

Okay, I'm off for a visit with a hammam to get scrubbed down. Bon nuit!

The Small Trip I Forgot to Mention

So. After leaving Fès, I traveled to the next large city - Meknès. I visited the medina there briefly. The main goal I had was to make it to the Roman ruins of Volubilis located not too far from the hillside town of Moulay Idriss. It was pretty nice. I'm sure that it does not compare to anything like that found in Greece, Italy or Turkey but it has whetted my appetite to one day make the travels to those countries to visit them. I visited part of it on my own as I really didn't need or want a guide. However, a guide, after finishing with his customers, came over and offered a tour with whatever time I had left for free. Nothing major but a nice gesture on his part nevertheless.

I haven't had the chance to upload any pictures since none of the computers I've had the opportunity to use will let me do that but there was one "surprise" at the ruins that I'll share with you when I get home. Quite interesting!

Quick Answer To Some Questions About Fès

Fès el-Bali is called the "old city" or "old medina". The streets are extremely narrow with the buildings going up 2-3 stories high. During the day it's rather charming, easy to get lost in, and thoroughly confusing. At night, however, when the streets empty they can seem rather sinister. It's quite easy to let your imagine take over and get yourself freaked out (and in some cases justifiably so) with images of a narrow dark alleyway, a rogue with malicious intent and an exotically curved knife, a body easily dispensed with one smooth motion across the throat.

All the streets travel downhill towards the different souqs; the city is pretty much shaped like a bowl.

Fès el-Jdid retains some of this romantic flavor but the path/walkways are much wider, there are fewer streets, and it is much smaller.

Le ville nouvelle is simply like any modern city.

MOROCCO - Brief Comments (On-going)

1. The people here are very upset about the cartoon caricature. Demonstrations are being held and it's constantly in the news.

2. I am so glad that I don't get easily rattled with crazy driving! It seems that here in Morocco, as with in Southeast Asia, the demarcations in the road are "suggestions" only, the goal is to fit as many vehicles across as possible despite lane markings, treat pedestrians as if they aren't really there (or at best, as if they are as "indestructible" as a vehicle themselves), and horns are to be used not for warnings but for "conversations" as well.

3. The Moroccans have processions winding through the streets for both weddings and for funerals. It's quite a spectacle! (I witnessed both.)

4. Goats look totally out of place in trees but yet they're there!

5. Men here, as with men in every place I have visited don't think twice about peeing wherever they may happen to be!

6. I'm a spoiled brat... I really like Western-style toilets! Really. And what I wouldn't give for my shower at home!

7. In Morocco each large city has petit taxis and grand taxis. The petit taxis are cars that are slightly larger than the old-school Honda Civic hatchbacks. For the grand taxis the vehicles used are Mercedes-Benz! (Petit taxis will only carry up to 3 passengers while the grand taxis will take up 5-7 passengers.)

8. It really is amazing how completely diverse the topography of Morocco is. You can go from a seaport where it's crazy windy to huge mountain peaks covered with snow to the dry desert inclusive of large sand dunes to lush green hills in a matter of hours. Reminds me of California in that regard...

9. Marrakech takes the cake in having the craziest "traffic" traversing its roads: upon entering the city today I witnessed the standard array of motor vehicles (buses, petit and grand taxis, buses, trucks), donkey- and horse-powered carts (of course with pneumatic tires), motor bikes, scooters, bicyclists, and pedestrians (yes, in the roadways as well as on the sidewalks). It is absolutely nuts here!! In the medina, I am desperately trying not to get run over by the motor bikes and scooters. I have had roughly 5 close calls. Yikes!

10. Because of the huge variety of tourists that visit Morocco, you will find people that can speak a huge multitude of languages. They may not know it completely thoroughly but well enough for conversations. The languages I have encountered Moroccans speaking include French (of course), Spanish, English (oddly not a huge number of speakers, though), German, Portuguese, Italian, Japanese, Korean, various African languages. So far, no one can speak any Chinese so I am able to get away with ignoring much of the hassles of the shopkeeps trying to ply their wares. Plus, when they hear that "I am from China" they immediately back off...I guess us Chinese are just too poor/cheap/bargain too low to be dealt with! C'est la vie!

11. Three guesses of what smells worse than wet dog and wet wool combined...
(The answer is wet camel hair! Yuck! Yuck! Yuck!) But it is awfully waterproof as it kept me completely dry when it rained couple of nights during my stay. The rain was most welcomed as it hasn't rained in months.

12. There are 2 things that I have come to believe are ubiquitous - cats and mobile phones. Imagine my surprise when I heard the melodious chimes of the mobile phone of my camel trek guide tinkling in the quiet of the desert!

13. I wonder just how black my lungs are right about now...I am getting so completely smoked out from all the cigarette smoke and vehicle exhaust. Yuck...

Hamdullah yet again...

Bon jour! Right now I am in a small town called Rissani killing time before I head out to Merzouga that is located on the edge of an erg, a set of sand dunes of the Sahara. I would have been here much earlier (instead of 11:30 am local time, it should have been at 6:00 am!) but I overslept on the bus and ended up an hour and a half west of here in a town called Tazzarine. Boy! Nothing like a lost foreigner just as the sun is coming up to draw a crowd! Since I was between two places that I wanted to visit, I couldn't decide what to do. However, several of the bus workers - all worried about and for me - decided that I needed to go back to my original destination of Rissani instead of Zamora. One of them, Atman (spelling?) insisted on feeding me breakfast while waiting for the next bus. Hamdullah!!

I know that I have mentioned the kindness and generosity of the people here in Morocco. I don't think that I can emphasize that enough. As you move away from the imperial cities of Fès and Meknès, it becomes even more apparent. For instance, the bus from Meknès to Rissani was overly packed. I ended up in this non-seat actually. It worked and I could sit and was really, for me, no problem. However, it didn't sit well with one of the bus workers. He made one of the several teenagers on board give his seat up for me. I didn't understand the exchange but it was apparent that the teen wasn't happy about it and wasn't too happy with the lecture he obviously got as well. Women are treated with much respect. Obviously, if one were to conduct themselves otherwise, reciprocal treatment will be given as I have also seen. Another reason for my commenting on this is because such respect that I have been shown is a bit surprising. I thought that I would be given much more of a hard time and be hassled. It really hasn't happened at all! Despite the warnings that I have read about in other travel postings, etc. I have been fortunate to not experience any of that. My experience thus far has been very much to the contrary! I am well taken care of without any expectations of payment or "favors". Let's hope that I continue to be blessed with such good fortune for the rest of my trip!

P.S. The bus ride from Meknès to Rissani, before I fell asleep, was pretty fascinating as it brought me from lush, green hillsides through the Middle Atlas Mountains where there was lots of snow, down to the wind-swept valleys and desert gorges. Gorgeous!

The Three Faces of Fès

There are 3 different parts of Fès: Fès el-Bali, Fès el-Jdid, and the ville nouvelle. I was quite amazed at how different they were. Traveling through those different parts (in that order), you can see how the architecture gets more and more modern (and frankly, in my humble opinion, quite bland and without character). What was also very interesting to note was the women - how they dressed and how they carried themselves. In the "old city" (Fès el-Bali), the women still pretty much wear traditional outfits and very little make-up. Going into Fès el-Jdid, less women wore the jellabas and covered their heads. Many more wore make-up - full make-up and perfume. Despite the high heels and form-fitting jeans, however, many still covered their heads. In the ville nouvelle there were even less women wearing the traditional garb. In fact, it seemed more like a large city. The women were meticulously made-up and sporting the latest fashions and perfume and without their heads being covered up. Quite interesting moving through the changes!

Hamdullah!! And kon ni chi wa!!

Wow. What an AMAZING last few days it has been. Let me fill you in...

The morning after arriving in Nador, I searched around for an ATM to use to get Moroccan money - dirhams. For some reason, the machines kept rejecting my card. I wasn't too concerned as I had USD to change. I thought that I would just deal with getting money in Fes. (The significance of this little tidbit comes in later.)

Anyhow, while attracting all sorts of attention walking to the main bus depot (I can just imagine just how strange I must've looked, first, by being a foreigner in a fairly small town and, second, by carrying a backpack the size of a small child!) I lucked out by finding a tout that was very honest. I was able to get a seat cheaply and quickly. Within 5 minutes, I was safely ensconced in my seat (the bus staff were somewhat worried that I would not be okay with it since it meant that I would need to sit next to a male) and on my way.

Can I just tell you how truly incredible the natural beauty and varying topography of northern Morocco? I really wish that I was able to take pictures! It ranged from flat scrubland to dry, rolling hills. As we continued on east of the Rif Mountains, gray crags took over only to eventually give way to brown gorges. Going further south and then west introduced large and lush, green hills. I am picturing the ride over again and, reading over my description, words just fail to describe how majestically beautiful is the countryside.

The bus ride was very interesting itself. Everyone was trying to be discreet in checking me out. That's not what's truly interesting as I've pretty much resigned myself to that reality. (That and the fact that they're at least polite about it.) The bus had to keep stopping outside of towns and at randoms spots to be checked out by the police. (Those of you from my SEA class trip can guess at why!) They were looking for drugs being transported from the Rif Mountains into the cities. Also, they were looking for "safe transport" money. Yeah, basically there was a lot of extortion going on. I found this out in a conversation mostly in French sprinkled with Spanish from a second gentleman (who later introduced himself to me as Abde Lazis) sitting next to me.

After that icebreaker, Abde and I tried sporadically to converse - him in French and me in Spanish. It was quite a bit of work! As we got closer to Fes, I switched to practicing Moroccan Arabic. That got some of the bus workers involved along with some of the people sitting around me. Needless to say, I provided them with much entertainment as I struggled with the various phrases and words that I would need to use. But they were kind in gently correcting my pronounciations. Once we arrived at Fes el-Bali, Abde was extremely kind in helping me get from the city gate, Bab Bou Jeloud, to a place I was hoping to stay. Thank goodness for it was getting dark and the medina (old city) streets were quite packed with people as well as being extremely narrow and circuitous! I didn't negotiate very well and used up what last dirhams I had; I definitely need to find an ATM in the morning!

As with in Nador, I was awoken early in the morning (6 am) by the call to prayer. I lazed on until it got much lighter and then set out in my quest for an ATM. I found one and, again, my card failed to work. I found another ATM and tried again. No luck. By this time, I was starting to get seriously worried.

I decided to check out yet another bank. As I approached it, one of the store owners called out in English that the bank was closed and there was no ATM. Now fairly stressed, I continued on. As I approached the merchant who called out to me, I said my thanks while glancing at his merchandise. Seeing this, he encouraged me to stop and look further. Wanting to resolve my lack of funds immediately, I declined. He continued to encourage me to look, as looking was "for free." Thinking that it would be a way to kill some time (it was still early and I was holding out hope that I would find some ATM that would work with my card in the later morning hours), I went in. The merhant (whose name is Sahid) and I started talking. Eventually it came out why I was so distracted and somewhat stressed out. He reassured me (Kel, you're gonna like this), "No problem!" He stated that he would help me out and proceeded to suggest several solutions that could be attempted. He had one of his workers bring me a glass of coffee, followed by tea. (Moroccan tea, by the way, is SO good. It's green tea with mint leaves and lots of sugar.) He then insisted on feeding me breakfast so that we may be fortified in our trying to get me some l'argent. Afterwards, we set off for his other store that had a credit card machine. We ran my card through and, voilà, it worked! I was so relieved!! One of his workers there informed me that ATMs in Morocco do not always work - sometimes the connections are not established and often they are out of cash, especially on the weekends. Nice to know that now!

Sahid must've really taken pity on me because he offered to be my guide and show me around the medina. I accepted and, boy!, am I glad I did! The medina is one extremely confusing and busy area. I was able to see the tanneries, the different souqs (clothing, gold, textiles, fruit/animal), various mosques (of which I did not enter not being Muslim), various fountains and shops. Details, histories, and stories about all were patiently explained to me (in English, no less!). All my senses were completely overwhelmed! Nearly one o'clock now and seeing how I was starting to flag from overload, Sahid suggested lunch and escorted me back to his shop.

Sahid also invited me to stay with his family instead of my pension. I tried to deline several times but he wouldn't hear "no." Also, he informed me that his sister and her family had invited me to dinner; in fact, his mother was wanting to meet me as well. So now I have found new and very kind friends in Fes! Everyone I am meeting have been very kind and welcoming! Hamdullah!! (Praise be to Allah!)

Anyhow, having been told to stay in Fes for a while, I am exploring today Fes el-Jdid and the ville nouvelle. I'm hoping to see Meknes tomorrow and the nearby Roman ruin at Volubilis. Sahid also suggested that he help arrange a trip to the Sahara, inclusive of a camel ride! Amazing!!

P.S. The "kon ni chi wa" in the title is because that is what has been called out to me wherever I go. Japanese tourists are rather abundant here and are most welcomed because of how much and how freely they spend. Alas, I disappoint because of my lack of spending and response of "Je ne suis japonaise. Je suis chinoise!" which I have now shortened to "Chine!" More often than not, though, I get a big smile and a shout of "Jackie Chan!" I wonder if he knows just how popular he is around the world?? Anyhow, I'm off to buy something to bring to Sahid's sister's house as I've been invited to dinner again!

Have Wedding Rings, Will Travel!

Please forgive me if mistakes in this post turns up. The keyboard I'm using in this Moroccan internet cafe is even more different from the one I used yesterday in my hostel in Spain with Arabic added to the keys and the web pages in French!

It was a beautiful ferry ride across the Mediterranean. The water was a slate grey that I have never seen in a body of water. Although it was pouring rain and the waters appeared rather choppy, it was a very peaceful (though long) crossing.

It was a very easy passport check and a short walk across the border from Melilla into Morocco. Then again, the guard was too busy telling me how unlucky he was because I was "married"! When I inquired as to whether or not he was married, he informed me that he was, with one very young son (he was very proud of that fact)! I asked then how could he be "unlucky" then? He laughed, shrugged his shoulders and then proceeded to stamp my passport.

The need to bargain hard began as soon as I approached the taxi drivers in order to get to the first town of Nador where I will be spending the night. Ah! I wish I could remember more of my basic, first semester French! Anyhow, the driver and his friend were crazy funny. After the basic drill of inquiring as to whether or not I had a boyfriend or husband (to which I affirmed - a lie I think I will be telling over and over while touring around Morocco, it seems), they started to tell me how much alike China and Morocco are. (I didn't bother to correct their assumption that I am not from China.) The only bad part about all of this was that the driver kept turning in his seat to speak directly to me - all the while driving on a poorly-lit road, trying to dodge other cars, and slap at his friend for trying to also talk to me! What an introduction to the country and its people!

Shady Me and Lovely London

Okay, to backpedal a bit... My entrance into the UK yesterday was a bit nerve-wracking. At the passport checkpoint, the guard detained me for about fifteen minutes. He asked question after question while flipping through my passport over and over again, scrutinizing at all the visas and stamps in it. He also minutely perused through all my air tickets and travel itineraries. To some of you, this may not be a big deal but this has been the longest that I have ever been detained during a passport check. Also, I have never had to answer questions about what sort of education am I pursuing, how much credit I have, how much money I have on my person, why I have the visas and stamps that I do, what my parents do, on and on. If anything, I would have thought that this would be something that would have happened to me during my travels in Southeast Asia! Oh well. I wonder if this is just a preparation for other passport checks to come during this trip. Anyhow, obviously, I finally satisfied the guard as I am continuing onward with my proposed travel.

Departing from Heathrow to Málaga was also another new experience for me. My carry-on bag, while being X-rayed triggered the staff to pull me aside to physically check my person and pull out everything in my bag in order to inspect all items. I am not sure what caused this but it seemed that my case containing my digital camera memory cards, my organizer, my water-purifier bottle, my digital camera were all causes for discussion among 3 staff members and their supervisor. Who knows? Finally, I was able to continue onward to a flight that was delayed for 3 hours. Yay!

Despite this, I would love very much to come back to London in the future - particularly during the spring or fall. It was quite cold today - 0 degrees centigrade. There were even some very light snow flurries! Nevertheless, with the little time that I had for exploration today, I was able to see Buckingham Palace, wave at a procession of the Horse Guards, take a stroll along the Jubilee Walkway, admire the gothic beauty of Westminster Abbey and Cathedral, hear the chimes of Big Ben, gape at 10 Downing Street and other such governmental buildings, glimpse at the London Eye partially shielded by fog, and laugh at the laissez-faire attitudes of the pigeons lounging around Trafalgar Square. I also checked out their Chinatown. It is so different from some of the other Chinatowns that I have visited. It is much cleaner (and less fragrant); the streets/walkways are wider apart; there are less bakery, grocery and souvenir/gift shops; and is fairly small. It is certainly a haven of restaurants, however! And what an abundance of theater and shows available to those seeking such culture! It was absolutely amazing. I have to agree with a friend that the Underground is much more convenient that our BART. But with so many stations where you have to ¨mind the gap,¨ I would not be able to say that if I was physically-disabled, blind or had a stroller for two.

Tonight I am spending the night in Málaga, Spain. Tomorrow I will catch the ferry across the Mediterranean to Melilla, another Spanish city (although it is located on the Moroccan side of the sea). From there I will start my Moroccan adventures!

Here.

This post is probably going to sound very unenthusiastic but that's because I am exhausted. I'm in London right now at a hostel in Hammersmith (Globetrotter Inn). And have just gotten up from a 5-hour nap(?). The flight was uneventful...got to watch some movies and slept some. (By the way, if any of you like jook/congee, SFO's international side has a restaurant that serves up some really good jook. Thanks for the tip and the send-off, Mr. K!!)

It's 9:45 pm local time so I'm heading off to the showers, and back to bed so that I'll have energy tomorrow to check out central London some before flying to Malaga, Spain.

Cheers!