Sunday, March 12, 2006

Witnessing A "Story-Play"

From Mysore we traveled to Kochi. It’s a city that has several districts. Although our lodging is in Ernakulam, we toured around the more picturesque Fort Cochin. It’s very quiet and mellow. Ernakulam itself has a very upscale, metropolitan feel within its city center but the outlying areas are quieter and almost rural-like. To get to Fort Cochin, a ferry must be used to cross the bay. It’s quite cheap; one-way cost Rs. 3. (The exchange rate is about Rs. 44 to $1.)

In Fort Cochin we attended a theatrical show – a performance of the art form of kathakali. (The literal translation is “story-play.” These are usually dramatised interpretations of Hindu epics.) Before the actual performance the audience was treated to the privilege of watching the performers put their face make-up on. It’s rather elaborate. Each performer puts on much of his make-up on but not all. To complete the face make-up another member adheres with rice paste pieces of paper that emphasizes the character that the performer is acting out.

The performers do not sing or speak. In order to act out the play, they must use grand gestures (mudras) and convey the action and emotions with their face. Some of the performers have very tight control over their facial muscles. They are quite talented and skilled in their facial movements. There are musicians that play. One plays small symbols; one drums with these long, curved sticks; and another also drums but with his hands (his fingertips are covered with what I believe are pieces of wood). The one who plays the symbols also plays a box-like accordion and sings as well.

There are no stage sets so much is also left up to the imagination of the audience. Very surreal.

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