Update

From Chennai:
K and I traveled by train to Kolkata. That was a 31-hour long ride. Fortunately, it didn't go so bad as we took the advice of the NY/LA pseudo-expat and splurged for the air-conditioned train (3rd class). In the south, it was easy to take the much less expensive non-A/C sleeper class because people were basically friendly and respectful. Not so much in the North. It is definitely better to take the 3rd A/C train but there still moments when it's touch-and-go as to whether or not you'll get into a disagreement about seating arrangements, volume control, lights on/off, luggage storage, etc. I later experienced this on our train ride from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri.

After getting into Kolkata in the morning we spent most of the day waiting to board another train that evening to get to New Jalpaiguri - the closest train stop to Darjeeling. It was a very tiring and hot wait. For the help that we've received on our travels we were able to return the favor for a Korean traveler touring around India on her own. She had just arrived in India that day and had no idea of where to go in Kolkata or any information on her proposed next destination. To this end we were able to provide her with those pages in our Lonely Planet guide.

Upon boarding the train, K and I tried to stow our huge packs as much out of the way as possible. However, a fellow passenger insisted on needing to store his luggage directly under his seat circumvented this hope. Oh well. I guess he preferred to have Ganesh' brain (the top of my pack) stick out and in his way. Anyhow, thank goodness for the help and kindness of another passenger who argued/translated for me and got everything smoothed out for the most part. She and her family ended up taking K and I under their wings, bought us snacks and drinks (I think they really pitied us because of our packs and lack of eating.) Her four-year-old son is beautiful, very smart and hysterically funny/fun to play with. On this train we also ended up talking at some length with the coach of the Indian Services (military) bodybuilding team. They were going to Darjeeling to compete in the "IBBF 45th Senior National Mr. India Bodybuilding Championships and Selection of India Bodybuilding Team for Asian Games."

From Darjeeling, we caught a shared taxi for a 3-hour ride up and up into the Himalayan mountains to Darjeeling (elevation of 2176 m, I believe). The route up was rather winding (as expected). However, it didn't sit well for one Indian matron sitting across from K (we were stuck facing each other on bench seats in the back of the SUV...the place in the back where people usually put cargo). I nervously watched her close her eyes against the tortuous whipping back and forth of the SUV (as well, I imagine, against the nausea and pain of motion sickness) and listened with great distress to her loudly belch. I was so afraid of her being sick on us for it would have caused my travel companion to get sick and, more than likely, also make me sick. Can you just imagine? The back full of sick passengers covered in vomit? Hm...yeah.

So. All-in-all a grueling bit of traveling we did (did I not swear this off already from my experience in Morocco?! but quite worth it after getting to Darjeeling and settling in). It was quite chilly but so extremely beautiful! Ironic that it's called a "hill station" when it's up at an elevation of 2176 m! Additionally, for us Darjeeling was quite a nice change of pace - it's much slower, kinder and gentler on tourists. Plus the Tibetan food! YUM! Momos, gyanthuk, thukpa, thenthuk, shabaly...ummm...but my mouth is watering just at that thought!

We spent 4 days/3 nights there. The highlight of my stay there was a sunrise trip to Tiger Hill. It was quite inspiring to see the the circular edge of the red sun peak through the clouds. But the star of the entire show was the gradual illumination of the mountain peaks opposite of the sunrise. The tallest of them all is Kangchendzoga which is reported to be the world's third highest peak weighing in at 8,585 m (28,169 ft). The name itself means 'House of Five Treasures’ represented by its five soaring summits. All the peaks were still covered in gloriously brilliant white of snow. As the clouds gradually withdrew downwards, the entire top of the mountain range shimmered with the morning light. Simply exhilarating! We were also able to see the very top peaks of Three Sisters as well as Everest in the distance.

Continuing onward, we caught a shared taxi back down to New Jalpaiguri to catch a train for New Delhi (22.5 hours), also 3rd A/C. From New Delhi we caught another train a few hours later to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and other goodies.

Let me tell you a bit about this last train ride. It has been our shortest train ride to date. And yet the most unbelievable amd the most unforgettable. Unless we caught the whole thing on video, I don't think you all would get the full impact of the situation. But let me try to describe it to you.

We have seen with other train boardings scores of people dashing off down the platform for some destination unknown to K and I. Today we found out why. Most trains have some cars for 1st A/C, 2nd A/C and 3rd A/C sleepers and/or chairs. The bulk of the cars are the non-A/C sleeper class.

Then they have the 2nd class. The few cars (usually 4, I'm told...2 at the beginning of the train and 2 at the end) are what the people are running for. The reason why they run is because they are trying to be the ones to get onto the cars - not to get a seat but just to get on. At the entrances to the cars there is quite a bit of hysterical shouting and screaming accompanied by violent pushing and shoving. This is because those on-board are desperately trying to shove their way off the train while those on the platform are desperately trying to shove their way on the train. I really wish I had a video to illustrate this utter complete madness.

So how did K and I discover this? Well, since we were interested in getting straight away to Agra from New Delhi and did not wish to arrive after dark, we chanced the purchase of a second class ticket. We had no clue what was in store for us.

Let me share with you the experience.

In shock we braced ourselves to push our way onto the very last car as it appeared to provide the best opportunity for us to just get on. Luckily we were able to make it on. However, almost immediately our packs (still on our backs) were being pushed, shoved, slapped, and beaten by crazed women with children trying to get off and get onto the car. Incredibly loud screeches and screaming in Hindu streamed from their mouths. (I'm sure we were being cursed to all sorts of hells and back!) Despite understanding their predicaments there was nothing that we could do. We were already pushed completely flat against the wall of the car. Various shapes and sizes of luggage were at our feet impeding us from shuffling anywhere not to mention other passengers (one of whom K knocked off balance with her pack when she tried to turn around to move)! Never have I experienced such crazed madness. One man helped us to remove our packs and arrange it slightly out of the way (although not by much). And then, with laughter tinged with a slight edge of hysteria and despair, we were finally on our way.

After a short while, however, K began to feel faint and not well at all. Luckily, at that time we had pulled into a train stop. The man who helped us with removal and storage of our packs, Kamal, got the attention of a train worker in the next car. He was able to get us moved into it. Frantically, with the help of another passenger, Kamal and I moved all our bags into that car while K tried to stay conscious as she made her way there as well.

Although it was at the expense of K getting ill (from which she recuperated mostly), this car that we moved into provided us with much space and much less number of bodies to be smothered with (there was only the flagger and his companion). It is here that we finally finished out our journey to Agra in peace.